Welcome to our guide to Hermès hardware! This guide has been specially made for Hermès resellers who want to enhance their knowledge and expertise in the world of Hermès handbags and luxury products. 

In this article, we’ll cover everything you need to know about the different types of hardware used in Hermès products, including their characteristics and unique features. Whether you’re a seasoned reseller or just starting out, this guide will help you identify and understand the hardware options available in Hermès products, giving you a competitive edge in luxury bag resale.

1. Gold Hardware (GHW)
2. Brushed Gold Hardware (BGHW)
3. Rose Gold Hardware (RGHW)
4. Palladium Hardware (PHW)
5. Brushed Palladium Hardware (BPHW)
6. Permabrass Hardware (PBHW)
7. Ruthenium Hardware
8. PVD Hardware
9. Diamond Hardware
10. Guilloché Hardware
11. Lacquer Hardware
12. Exotic Skin Hardware

Gold Hardware (GHW)

Gold hardware is a timeless and iconic choice in the world of Hermès. Known as GHW by professionals, this classic hardware option is used throughout the Hermès collection, adding a touch of luxury and elegance to any bag. Hermès commonly uses 18-karat gold plated brass for its gold hardware, but customized handbags made through Hermès special orders feature 24-karat gold, taking the opulence factor up a notch.

Gold hardware is especially popular on neutral-toned bags, such as noir, gold, and etain, but it can also be paired with brighter shades for a bold statement. Its warm, lustrous shine is the epitome of sophistication and glamour, making it a top choice for many Hermès enthusiasts.

However, that gold hardware is prone to scratching and fading over time. Proper care and maintenance, such as avoiding harsh chemicals and storing the bag in a dust bag, can help prolong the life of the hardware and preserve its shine.

It is essential to note that Hermès has a special code to identify each type of hardware, the Gold hardware is identified with the Hermès code CC. These special codes can be seen in the official invoices alongside other details regarding the model, color, and skin of each handbag. It must be noted that Gold hardware is the most sought-after in the resale market along with the palladium hardware, so it is a safe option to invest in a Hermès handabg with gold plated hardware.

Brushed Gold Hardware (BGHW)

Hermès brushed gold hardware or BGHW is a perfect option for those who are looking for a more subtle and modern look. This type of hardware is still made of 18-karat gold plating but has a unique matte finish that is created by scratching the surface of the metal in a single direction. 

The satin appearance of brushed gold hardware is a contemporary take on classic shiny gold and is an excellent option for those who prefer a more understated and subtle look. It is also known for being less prone to scratches, which makes it an ideal choice for those who use their Hermès handbags on a regular basis.

Brushed gold hardware is a versatile option that can be paired with various colors and materials, making it an excellent choice for any Hermès handbag.

The Hermès code for Brushed Gold hardware is CM.

Rose Gold Hardware (RGHW)

Hermès rose gold hardware, also known as RGHW, is a stunning addition to the hardware collection. Unlike traditional gold, it has a pink-toned finish achieved by mixing genuine gold with copper and sometimes silver. This creates a unique and luxurious look that complements neutral-toned Hermès bags exceptionally well.

The addition of copper in the mixture also adds durability and makes it more resistant to scratches compared to classic yellow gold. Introduced relatively recently, rose gold hardware has gained immense popularity among Hermès enthusiasts and is often seen as a statement piece. It adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to any Hermès handbag.

The Hermès code for Rose Gold hardware is CD.

Palladium Hardware (PHW)

Palladium hardware or PHW is a popular choice for Hermès handbags due to its sleek and modern look. It is made of palladium-plated brass and has a silver-toned appearance. Palladium hardware is also durable and resistant to scratching, making it an excellent choice for everyday use.

Palladium hardware is one of the most sought-after hardware types used in Hermès handbags, providing a sophisticated and sleek appearance. Made of the platinum group of metals, Palladium has a unique lustrous quality, which adds a luxurious touch to any Hermès handbag. Unlike silver, Palladium has a whiter and brighter tone, which gives it a more pristine look.

Palladium hardware is a more durable option than gold hardware and is more resistant to scratching, making it an excellent choice for those who want to use their Hermès handbag frequently. Furthermore, the cool tone of Palladium creates a striking contrast when paired with handbags in vibrant colors, such as pink or blue, making it a popular choice for collectors. In fact, palladium hardware is very sought-after in the Hermès resale market, alongside gold plated hardware, so it is a good option to invest.

The Hermès code for Palladium hardware is CK.

Brushed Palladium Hardware (BPHW)

Brushed Palladium (BPHW) is a type of Hermès hardware that has been treated with a brushing technique to achieve a matte finish. This process gives the hardware a more subtle and understated appearance, making it perfect for those who prefer a more low-key look. 

Brushed palladium hardware is also less prone to scratching compared to regular palladium hardware, making it a more durable option. This type of hardware pairs well with neutral-toned bags and can add a touch of modernity to any Hermès handbag. The brushed finish also adds an extra layer of texture, making the hardware stand out even more.

The Hermès code for Brushed Palladium hardware is CB.

Permabrass Hardware (PBHW)

Hermès permabrass (PBHW) is a unique and distinctive hardware option that offers a subtle blend of gold and palladium. This combination creates a luxurious champagne-toned metal that has a beautiful, luminous shine.

The permabrass hardware option is often paired with dark blues and greens for a striking contrast that adds a touch of elegance to any Hermès handbag. It is an ideal choice for those who want something different but not too bold. Additionally, the permabrass finish is quite durable and does not easily tarnish or wear off, making it a long-lasting and reliable hardware option for luxury handbags.

The Hermès code for Permabrass hardware is CP.

Ruthenium Hardware (RHW)

Ruthenium (RHW) is a hard and rare transition metal that is found in the platinum group of elements. It is a darker alternative to the classic silver-toned hardware, providing a more edgy and modern look.

Ruthenium hardware is typically used in Hermès handbags with darker leathers, such as noir or navy blue. The metal is known for its durability and resistance to tarnishing, making it a popular choice for those who want a long-lasting, low-maintenance option. Ruthenium hardware has been used in limited edition collections, adding a touch of exclusivity to Hermès bags.

The Hermès code for Ruthenium hardware is CY.

PVD Hardware

Hermès is known for its high-quality and timeless designs, but they are not afraid to experiment with new and unique styles. One such experiment resulted in the creation of PVD hardware, which was first popularized by Jean Paul Gaultier during his avant-garde So Black collection. The gunmetal-toned material offers an edgier alternative to the classic palladium hardware.

PVD, or physical vapor deposition, is a coating process that involves depositing a thin layer of material onto a surface using a vacuum. In the case of Hermès hardware, it is used to darken ruthenium metal to nearly black. PVD hardware has been used exclusively in the Hermès So Black collection, which includes various handbags and accessories featuring black leather and PVD-coated hardware.

The PVD coating not only gives the hardware a unique and edgy look but also increases its durability and scratch resistance. The So Black collection has become a highly sought-after and collectible line among Hermès enthusiasts and luxury collectors.

Diamond Hardware

Hermès diamond hardware is the ultimate in luxury and glamour. This rare hardware option features 18-karat white, yellow, or rose gold plating and is encrusted with genuine diamonds. The intricate detailing of the diamonds is a testament to the quality and craftsmanship that goes into every Hermès handbag.

Diamond hardware is often reserved for the most exquisite and unique Hermès pieces, including the highly coveted Himalaya Birkin. These diamond Birkins are incredibly rare and are considered some of the most sought-after and expensive bags in the world. The diamond hardware option elevates any Hermès bag to the status of a true work of art, making it a must-have for any collector of luxury items.

The Hermès code for Diamond hardware is CG.

Guilloché Hardware

Guilloché is a specialized engraving technique that has been used on Hermès hardware to produce intricate diamond patterns. This delicate and time-consuming process creates a unique texture that not only adds a visually distinctive touch to the hardware but also enhances its durability.

Hermès Guilloché hardware is primarily seen on palladium finishes and pairs beautifully with smooth leather, such as Box Calf Leather. This hardware option is ideal for those who want a subtle yet sophisticated detail on their Hermès handbag.

Lacquer Hardware

Hermès Lacquer hardware is a unique feature used in Constance bags to enhance the appearance of the signature "H" clasp. This hardware is covered with an enamel lacquer that adds a pop of color and shine. The lacquer coating also provides an extra layer of protection, making the hardware more durable and resistant to scratches.

The lacquer comes in various colors, allowing for customization of the Constance bag. The combination of enamel lacquer and palladium hardware creates a unique and eye-catching aesthetic, making the Constance bag stand out from other Hermès handbags. The Hermès Laquer hardware is a beautiful and functional feature that adds to the value and appeal of the Constance bag.

Exotic Skin Hardware

Hermès hardware made of exotic skins is one of the most luxurious options available for those looking for a statement piece. Inlaid with skins such as crocodile, alligator, and lizard, this hardware is not only durable but also exudes a high-end aesthetic that is synonymous with the Hermès brand.

These exotic skins are carefully selected and inlaid onto a palladium hardware base, creating a unique and eye-catching effect. The tri-color Crocodile Constance is a popular example of exotic skin hardware used on a Hermès handbag. The process of inlaying the skins onto the hardware is done with precision and care, resulting in a seamless and stunning finish. 

It must be noted that the handbags that are not made of exotic skins but contain exotic skin hardware are marked with the special symbol print that corresponds to the exotic skin that they feature. This print can be found next to the “Hermès - Paris - Made in France” print.

Learn more about Hermès' special symbols and prints.

Hermès hardware is available in various types, each with its unique characteristics, making Hermès handbags and products unique and special. As Hermès resellers, understanding the different types of hardware is crucial in determining the value of a Hermès handbag or product. Knowing the different types of hardware can also help clients choose the right handbag that fits their personal style and needs.

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